Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.